Rick's Camino de Santiago

After yesterday’s long trek over the mountain range, we were very happy to have a relatively short walking day today of only 10 miles. While some pilgrims would say we were cheating, by taking a taxi out of Ponferrada to avoid the 8 kilometer industrial zone, I say we are keeping ourselves in a more peaceful state of mind and keeping ourselves safe.

Taking a taxi out of Ponferrada gave Eladio and I time to have a beautiful Sunday brunch as we walked into the village of Cacabelos. We stopped into a beautiful restaurant called Moncloa and ordered all kinds of food. We took our time to really enjoy the food, the staff and the warm Spanish environment.

After brunch we continued walking through the village of Cacabelos as the town church bells where ringing, calling villagers to attend mass. The sun was shining and the locals seemed pleasant and happy, wishing Eladio and I “Buen Camino” as we passed through. We then found ourselves in the midst of the grape vineyards in the wine growing region. Grape vineyards were spread out in every direction as far as the eyes could see, with only an occasional cherry orchard to change things up a bit. We walked through this amazing terrain for miles on the winding Camino. We walked through adorable villages and grape vineyards until we found ourselves walking up and into another mountain pass. Luckily the village we are staying the night was only a few miles into the mountain, Villafranca del Bierzo. Walking into the village was a gorgeous sight, surrounded by mountains on all sides. The village center is lively with several outdoor cafes, all of them bustling with local residents enjoying the Sunday afternoon sun.

After nearly two weeks, we’re in grape growing territory again.

Eladio with our brunch feast at Moncloa restaurant in Cacabelos, Spain.

Pear tart at brunch at Moncloa restaurant in Cacabelos

Eladio at church in Cacabelos Spain

This statue looked like drag queen Jesus. I felt guilty for thinking that. Lol.

Inside charming church in Cacabelos

The charmimg village of Cacabelos

Home with stream running through it.

Can’t get enough of the views today. Trying to soak it all in.

Grape vineyards and the mountains we hiked over yesterday

Cherry orchards between Ponferrada and Villafranca del Bierzo

Door to medieval church next to our hotel

Looking over Villafranca del Bierzo from the church grounds

View of vineyards with the mountains we crossed the day before.

Our first view of Villafranca del Bierzo

Walking into Villafranca del Bierzo after a day of walking

Door on home in Villafranca del Bierzo. Makes me want to look in.

Our hotel in Villafranca del Bierzo, Hotel San Francisco

The village of Villafranca del Bierzo from our hotel window.

San Francisco church in Villafranca del Bierzo

I felt the strongest, most capable and empowered on today’s Camino than I have at any time in my adult life. Today we walked 18 miles across difficult, mountainous terrain. While it was the most physically challenging day of our Camino, it was also the most rewarding. There’s something about hiking up, over and through mountains that energizes the soul. Perhaps that is why the location of Cruce Ferro is located at the first mountain peak on today’s Camino, about 4 miles up steep mountain slopes.

We reached Cruce Ferro after a steady uphill climb through rocky and muddy trails. The peak is 5000 feet above sea level. At the sight is a large cross on a tall, but thin pole. At the base of the pole, millions of pilgrims across the years have placed stones they’ve carried on the Camino holding their burdens, sorrows, regrets. It was an emotional day for me knowing I would be leaving several stones I’ve been carrying with me this entire journey. One of my stones has my name engraved on it. It symbolizes my personal sorrows and regrets and pains. I’ve spent this entire trip carrying those burdens. Three other stones have names engraved on them of loved ones who recently passed away, before their time, before they could make such a journey on their own. I have carried two of those stones, one for my Dad, Arlen, who loved to travel and would have loved this adventure. The other for my niece Brittany who, at the age of 19, passed away last year in Argentina. She was full of life, love and had so much to live for. I know she would have loved this experience. The third stone has a friend,  Ludwig’s name engraved on it. Eladio has carried the stone in his pocket the entire journey, sometimes bringing it out at different spots along the Camino.

When Eladio and I arrived at Cruce Ferro, other pilgrims were having their brief moments and prayers, placing their stones. After a short break to replinish ourselves, we brought out the stones, placed them on the table where we were sitting, and refelected on the significance they represent. Eladio climbed to the top of the rock mountain, placed the stone with his name, then of Ludwig’s. I then climbed the rocks, found a spot that seemed right and carefully placed the stones of my Dad, Brittany and then my own stone. After climbing back down, Eladio and I looked at each other and with just that look, we could see we were having similar thoughts. To leave our own stones felt freeing, with a calmness; however, it was difficult and emotional leaving behind the stones of my Dad, Brittany and Ludwig.

First thing in the morning up the mountain trail

Departing Rabanal del Camino up the mountain trail

Arlen’s stone as we prepared it to place on Cruce Ferro

Brittany’s stone as we took it out to place.

Taking out Ludwig’s stone at Cruce Ferro

Taking the stones to find the perfect spot

Eladio about to place his and Ludwig’s stones

Me placing the stones at Cruce Ferro

Arlen’s , Brittany’s and my own stone placed at Cruce Ferro

My Dad’s stone placed on Cruce Ferro

Eladio’s and Ludwig’s stones placed on Cruce Ferro

The stones are now all placed on Cruce Ferro

Rick on top of Cruce Ferro

Having placed the stones, our final photo as we continued our journey

Cows grazing mountain meadows

Walking the mountain ridge between peaks

This 70 year old lady passed me up like I was standing still.

Wildflowers in small mountain village

House in the mountsins

Templar Castle in Ponferrada

Templar Castle in Ponferrada

In the city of Ponferrada

I love walking through all the small villages and towns on the Camino. Today there were 4 evenly spaced villages on our 13 mile day. We’ve found you are never more than a 2 hour walk from the next village and, in most cases, not more than an hour. Eladio and I walked together and decided to stop in the first village for rest and beverages. We found a cute cafe in the small town. As I entered the cafe, the sound of Gotye’s “Somebody that I used to know” was playing on the stereo. I could see a husband and wife team working the inside of the cafe, they were alone with no costmers. The lady was on the other side of the cafe getting into the song and dancing. The husband had been dancing as well, but as soon as he saw me walk in he stopped. As I walked in a little further, the wife noticed me and I started dancing with her. The husband then couldn’t help himself and broke out in dance as well. The three of us, in full sync with each other, danced the song out, looked at each other and laughed. In that moment we weren’t Spanish, or American. We weren’t pilgrims and shop owners. We were simply people enjoying a momeny of joy.

Every walking day is different. Today we enjoyed warm sunshine with fresh breezes. It was a shorts and t-shirts kinda day that with the right tune, just made us want to dance. 

Departing trail from Astorga

Walking through one of the many villages

My Camino dance partner

Cross marker on Camino between villages

Ruins of old village

Small village church with storks

Religious art in church

Blue door on village house

The view from our room in Rabanal

The best part of walking the Camino de Santiago, in my opinion, are all the happy surprises that pop up along the way. We had several of those fun surprises today. The first surprise is that we did not have to walk out of the large city of Leon. Walking to and from the large cities can be dangerous as you dodge traffic, industrial areas and busy streets. Today a driver picked us up from our hotel and took us out of the city limits. We began our walking day from Hospital de Obrigo, where we found another surprise. The first steps of today’s walk would be across a long, medieval bridge adorned with flags from the period. It gave a sense of walking into 13th century Spain. It felt magical and added a sense of wonder to our morning.

Another day’s surprise is that we have now walked our way off the Masetta, which is the flat farmland we have been walking for nearly a week. Today we walked through beautiful wooded forests, winding country trails and through quaint country villages. The skies were crystal clear blue and the day was warm and dry. Mountains, hillsides and a winding Camino de Santiago made for a great way to spend the day.

My favorite surprise of the day was walking into the beautiful city of Astorga and finding one of only 3 buildings built by artist and architect Antoni Gaudi outside the Catalan region of Spain. Gaudi is most famous for the design of La Sagrada Familia in Barcelona. In Astorga Gaudi designed the Episcopal Palace. Donna and I spent an hour wandering through the palace, which became an art museum in the late 1950’s. Right next to the Palace is the Cathedral of Astorga. It is massive and now boasts a museum of religious art alongside the Gothic cathedral.

Orbigo bridge, built in the 13th century, was the start of our walking day.

Crossing Orbigo bridge built in the 13th century

Crossing Orbigo bridge built in the 13th century

Leaving the Masetta and finding trees again.

We have trees again!!!!

Stop for coffee in Villares de Orbigo

Stone cross that commemorates the 5th century Bishop Toribio of Astorga

Pilgrims taking a water break

This elderly couple walking the Camino holding hands. Made me smile.

Gaudi Palace in Astorga Spain

Rick Scadlock at Gaudi Palace in Spain

Inside Gaudi Palace in Astorga

Throne in Gaudi Palace in Astorga

Astorga Cathedral

Astorga Cathedral

Astorga Cathedral

Religious Art in Astorga Cathedral

Religious Art in Astorga Cathedral

The cathedrals and churches we’ve seen along the Camino are spectacular. Some small village churches from the early middle ages to giant Gothic cathedrals in the larger cities. The highlight of today was the grand Cathedral in León, Spain, spectacular in every way. The most impressive feature being the 3 to 4 story tall ornate stained glass windows.

We started our day in Mansilla crossing a Medieval period bridge out to the
open road leading to León. Bridges seemed to be the theme of the day, as we crossed or passed several of them on the way. I am always impressed how the ancient bridges are incorporated into today’s world.

We could see we were approaching a large city environment as the Camino weaved in and and out of busy highway roads and gravel trails.

After arriving into León we met Donna, who was waiting for us at the hotel. I quickly changed clothes and we headed out to explore this magnificent city and the cathderal. Donna and I had a wonderful afternoon soaking up all the sights and topped the day off with an amazing dinner at El Bigote del Marqués Restaurant. Goat cheese and Carmelized apple salad was our entrée of choice, exquisite.

Saying goodbye to Javier, the owner of our hotel in Mansilla.

Departing Mansilla over a Medieval bridge.

About to cross another bridge

Medieval bridge now used for auto traffic

Reaching the outskirts of León

The Camino weaving in and out of trails to highways

Crossing modern day bridge over freeway into León

Bridge into León, Spain

León Cathedral

León Cathedral

Inside León Cathedral. Love the stained glass.

Stained glass windows in León Cathedral.

Walking through plaza in León.

Dinner with Donna. Goat cheese and carmelized apple salad.

We have discovered over the past two weeks there are two kinds of walking pilgrims, Albergue pilgrims and Hotel pilgrims. Albergue pilgrims are die hard pilgrims who stay in hostels designed for pilgrims (albergues). Albergues most often have bunkbeds in rooms that accommodate between 12 and 200 people. They have public showers, public dining halls and offer beds for around 10 euro per night. Those who stay in albergues have curfews and must be out by around 8am. Abergue pilgrims don’t generally have reservations, so they are in a race with each other to next stopping point on the journey before everyone arrives to get beds in the best albergues before they’re gone. Albergue pilgrims depart super early, before sunrise, in their race to the next stop.

Hotel pilgrims stay in pre-reserved hotels, inns and bed-n-breakfasts. They pay a little extra to have private rooms and bathrooms. They wake up about the same time the albergue pilgrims start walking. They eat a leisurely, included breakfast and start their walking days around 8:30am or 9:00am. Hotel pilgrims take their time exploring villages knowing they have a place to stay in the next town they plan to stop overnight. We are hotel pilgrims and we enjoy taking our time each day to appreciate this magical journey.

We departed El Burgo Ranero after a delicious breakfast at our hotel and found our way to the Camino. We are now deep into the Masetta, where for our first several miles we saw nothing but fields. There wasn’t a single bush, shrub, or tree, but if we looked, we did discover beautiful sights. Wildflowers are in blooom everywhere right now. Eladio and I loved seeing all of them on today’s journey. One field we passed had thousands of poppies, so we couldn’t help but veer of the trail to take photos.

Young sycamore trees have been planted along the entire 12 mile section of the Camino we walked today. The trees look like they were planted about 5 or 6 years ago and will just get better in time. They will provide a great deal of shade that was previously missing on this part of the Camino, a very nice touch.

Eladio and I shared some touching stories and had enjoyable conversations. It’s been wonderful getting to know him better and having this quality time together. Before we knew it we were walking into Mansilla. The entrance of the village has ruins of the ancient gates pilgrims passed through to enter the León region. Pilgrims still pass through what is remaining of the gates and into the village of Mansilla de las Mulas. We found our quaint hotel. We were met by the owners, a married couple who couldn’t be more charming. They checked us in and Javier, the man, invited Eladio and I in for a welcome drink. He quickly took us into his bar,  poured 3 glasses of white wine, added sweet vermouth and said “salud” (cheers). He then showed us to our charmimg room with an incredible view of the hotel courtyard and village church. We are so happy to be Hotel Pilgrims.

Lake adjacent to El Burgo Ranero

Not a tree or shrub in sight, but plenty of wildflowers

Cross marker in the middle of nowhere Camino

Eladio in a field of poppies and wildflowers

Trees are now planted along the Masetta, providing shade to Pilgrims

Homes built into hillsides

Homes built into hills

Entering the village of Mansilla de las Mulas

Entering the gates of Mansilla de las Mulas

Entering the ruins of the pilgrims gates into León

Checking into our ancient hotel in Mansilla de las Mulas

Hallway to our room in Mansilla de las Mulas

Our hotel room in Mansilla de las Mulas

The view from our hotel room in Mansilla

It was a milestone day for us on the Camino when we walked into El Burgo Ranero, reaching our 200 mile mark. 200.5 miles to be exact. I’ve never walked so many miles, in this short of a time period, in my life. Sahagún is a charming old city with lots of character. It has several ancient monasteries, some in ruins, and the largest restored as an art gallery. We walked past the part of town with monasteries before crosssing a Medieval period bridge leading out of town.

We are now on the Masetta, a part of the Camino that is largely flat farmland. I’ve been dreading this part of the Camino because some pilgrims find it repetitive and boring. I am actually enjoying it very much. The people seem friendlier and there are fun little villages to walk through. Wildflowers are blooming everywhere and the farms are beautiful to me.

Donna stayed back in Sahagún to rest. Tomorrow she’s taking a train to Leon, where she’ll stay a couple days until we get there. Eladio had an enjoyable day walking the 12 miles from Sahagún. We got into our wallking groove and made good timing, stopping for lunch in the only village we passed through on our way. While eating lunch, a friendly cat jumped on his lap, mostly looking for food. It startled him and we laughed.

After arrriving in El Burgo Ranero, we met up with Ebony and Graham. We had a lovely dinner at the local truck stop, which, surprisingly, has great food. It’s the first time I’ve ever had dinner and drinks at a truck stop, so I suppose that’s another milestone for today.

Leaving Sahagún. This is at the monastery ruins

Crossing the bridge out of Sahagún

Eladio crossing the bridge out of Sahagún

Farm mid way between Sahagún and El Burgo Ranero

On the Camino de Santiago to El Burgo Ranero

Eladio getting to know the local felines

Cart in a yard in El Burgo Ranero

Walking into El Burgo Ranero

15 days of walking, 15 days of no shaving. Hmmm.

Having dinner at a truck stop in El Burgo Ranero with Eladio, Ebony and Graham.

The Pilgrims Credential is a document, kind of like a passport, that you carry with you on the Camino de Santiago. At various places you stop along your journey, you have it stamped to show you were there. Two stamps per day from different villages are best. You can get stamps in churches, hotels, albergues, cafes and restaurants. Upon arrival into Santiago de Compostela, you take your credential to the official office, where they interview you and once verified, you receive a Compostela,  which is a certificate of completion of walking the Camino de Santiago.

Today our walk took us into Sahagún,  Spain, which is the mid-way point of the Camino between Ronesvalles and Santiago de Compostela. In the city center of Sahagún is an old monastery that has been restored. The nuns that run the updated ruins of the old monastery take your pilgrims credential and provide you with a mid point certificate of completion. I was on my way to the monastery when I ran into Graham, as he was just arriving into town, still with backpack in tow. He decided to join me and we started wallking to the monastery. We then ran into Ebony having a snack in an outdoor cafe. She decided to walk with us as well, so the three of us wandered and found our way to the monastery for a mid Camino certificate.

Today, as I departed Calzadilla, I decided to walk alone for the day. Donna decided she needed a couple more days to fully recover and Eladio wanted to leave a bit later. I set out from Calzadilla in the morning sunshine to a chorus of coo-coo birds singing from every direction, it was magical. The Camino took me through 4 villages, each with their own charm. The most memorable was Moratinas. They had houses built into the hills of the town that looked a lot like hobbit houses. The structures are more than 500 years old. Its strange seeing television antennas and chimneys coming up from the ground.

I felt a deep love for the Camino today. It’s incredibly peaceful and such a beautiful way to spend a day, collecting thoughts and becoming more in touch with my true self. I had my paper pilgrims credential stamped today, but that’s nothing in comparison with the mark the trail is leaving in my heart.

My Pilgrims Credential

My pilgrims credential

Departing Calzadilla alone with the call of coo-coos

Walking the Camino alone in the morning

Walking alone in the quiet morning

Hillside home in Moritana Spain

Home built into hillside, kinda like hobbit homes

Bodega built into hillside, over 500 years old

Cute bridge and church just outside Sahagún

Cute church just outside Sahagún

Ebony waiting for monastery to open for mid way certificate

Old monastery converted to art exhibit center

Art inside restored monastery

Old, restored monastery converted to art center

My mid way certificate from Sahagún

Dinner with Eladio, Ebony and Graham

Pilgrims have been waking the Camino de Santiago for over 1000 years. The Pilgrimage is historically Catholic and began because Christians believe the apostle James is buried in the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela  (St James in Spanish is Saint Iago, which became Santiago). It was considered a very holy way to be absolved of sins, a journey to become more in tune with faith, or an act of religious obedience and soul searching. At the peak of the Camino, in the middle ages, approximately 500,000 people from across Europe would make the journey each year. There are several paths that lead to Santiago de Compostela. We are walking the most heavily traveled path, the Camino Francěs (the French Way).

Nowadays people walk the path for many reasons; some religious, some historical and many more for hundreds of reasons in between. The history of the trail is entrenched in the culture of the communities along the path. Sometimes the history includes remnants of a time before Christians and Pilgrims as well. That is the case with part of the Camino we walked today, called the Via Aquitana. It is one of the oldest original roads that has been in continuous use since it was built 2000 years ago during the Roman Empire. It was originally used to transport cattle and is now used primarily as a footpath on the Camino de Santiago. We walked about 8 miles on the historic road today.

Donna felt well enough for a full day of walking. She took it slow and easy. We made the 10 miles in about 7 hours. This was the first day of walking that we didn’t have any villages between our starting point and the end in Calzadilla. We did pass an eerie, abandoned monastery looking building, where we took a short break. We also ran into Eladio, Ebony and Graham at a pilgrims stop about mid way on our trek.

Donna departing Carrion de los Condes

Abandoned monastery

Marker of the 2000 year old Aquitana

The 2000 year old Roman Road, the Aquitana

Donna, Ebony, Graham and Eladio on the Camino

Dog joining us for a snack

Abandoned monastery

Donna is a trooper. Walking 10 miles today.

Donna was feeling quite a bit better this morning, after resting and icing her shin splints for a couple of days. She decided to give it her best shot to walk with us this morning. She made it about half a mile out of town before the pain became to great for her to carry one. We decided it was best for her to rest another day, so we walked back to Fromista to the nearest Café. There we called for a taxi, which arrived within 10 minutes. Donna was a little heart broken and let down, but knew it was best to get back on track for the final two weeks that are coming up.

After the taxi arrived for Donna, I walked alone the first half of the 12 miles to Carrion de los Condes. Eladio had gone ahead and I told him I would eventually catch up. It was nice walking alone with my thoughts. The sound of coo-coo birds filled the morning air, which was a nice treat. Just before the first village, called Poblacion de Campos, there was a lovely chapel, garden and cemetery. It seemed beautiful and peaceful, so I stopped there for a little break and to take in the quiet beauty. While there I received a text from Eladio saying he would wait for me at the next village, so I walked quickly to catch up. Once we met, we happened upon small village café on a farm. We walked in and ordered omelette’s. We were greeted by friendly dogs, chickens and roosters. A bit later a gaggle of geese came passing by very loudly, as if to demand everyone’s attention. The owner brought out some stale bread to feed them, which I did and it settled the geese down.

Most of our walk from that point was along a highway into Carrion de los Condes. We did walk upon one additional small village with a massive medieval period cathedral. We couldn’t help but wander into the village to see the church. We were met at the church doors by a local man eager to meet us. We paid a small donation to enter and then wandered the beautiful chapel. The church is called Santa Maria La Blanca. Dating from the 12th century, it houses the remains of noblemen and royals. It is now a national monument.

After arriving in Carrion, we checked in to our hotel. I was resting in my hotel and I could hear an Australian accent just outside my window. It was Ebony having a drink on the terrace from the bar in our hotel. She was literally just outside the window. Eladio and I joined her and Graham. We talked, laughed and shared stories from our day.

Rick, Donna and Eladio departing Fromista

Camino Pilgrim Art Crossing Highway out of Fromista, Spain.

Small Chapel at Park and Cemetery in Poblacion de Campos

The main street through Revenga de Campos is called “Calle Camino Fraces,” or The French Way Street.

Cross in field between Fromista and Carrion de los Condes

Feeding the Ducks at Lunch

Outside Santa Maria la Blanca Church

Inside Santa Maria la Blanca Church

Inside Santa Maria la Blanca Church

Inside Santa Maria la Blanca Church

Inside Santa Maria la Blanca Church

Inside Santa Maria la Blanca Church